22 February 2011

you're so vain

"You can make it meh-zee, or you can style it straight. Do you see? Do you like?"

My hair's never been so tousled in its life! No zeese way, no look zat way! I just returned from my second hair cut in Beijing at the Eric Paris Salon in Sanlitun Village. Voila! I'm a new woman. Well, I'm a new woman at least until I have to wash my hair tomorrow morning and I try styling my short 'do myself.

Upon two separate recommendations I chose this particular salon; one from a friend back at Princeton who was in Beijing three years ago, the other a pre-departure suggestion from my mother who's extensive internet searching and googling always produces superior results. The thing is I am supposed to have no muss, no fuss super short hair. But the downside to never having to buy hair bands for lovely long locks is the upkeep. Every five weeks for a cut is usually my routine, but I've been stretching it to eight weeks in Beijing at 445 RMB a cut (around $70 which is double what I pay at home). I found out when making today's appointment that the first woman who cut my hair just moved back to Paris after eight years in Beijing. That makes two people in the past eleven years who have cut my hair, both of whom are now very, very far away. So I said "au revoir!" to Waiba, and today was prepared to meet Caroline.

When you enter the salon you are greeted not by hair products and nail polish odors, but by twinkling trinkets, baubles and shiny eye-catching jewels. Power through it, the salon is located on the building's second floor - a bright, open and clean space. There are lots of staff standing about at the ready to offer a drink, a magazine or an invitation to the grand opening of it's adjoining jewelry shop through which you just entered (this Thursday night if anyone is interested). The trendy space is filled also with a mix of French pop music and Pottery Barn soundtracks gently soothing patrons into beautified states of bliss. I always feel a bit awkward in salons that are hyper-aware of their own artistry - I don't always need someone to put the salon robe on for me and tie the belt, I can do that myself. But, I play along because that's how it goes when one is being pampered. Lots of fussing meant that my hair was washed twice by two different women - pre and post cut. Then it was dried by another woman before it was to be styled by someone else!

So, there I was, in my assigned chair with my cup of chrysanthemum tea and an English language Cosmo magazine, waiting for Caroline. And then suddenly, a pair of man's hands were scrunching and smooshing and twirling this way and that atop my mop. I was fated to by sculpted by the man himself. Caroline, it turns out, is sick today, so I was in the hands of the Eric of Eric Paris. My first thought was, "shit! Do I have enough cash for this?" The salon hierarchy means the more titles to your name the costlier the cut. What's the going rate for "Salon Owner and Creative Director" these days? My third and fourth thoughts melted away as I was getting my hair washed and my head massaged while scents of jasmine and honeysuckle wafted over me at the row of sinks.

Back in my chair, there were a few questions exchanged, something about "It will be my inspiration!" from Eric, some normal pleasantries, and then the master went to work. Hmmm? What's that? I didn't quite catch what it was that was going to inspire him. He is a no-nonsense sort of French fellow. In his element he is serious about his movements, the scissors bouncing around my head like a scene from Edward Scissorhands at one point. I tried unsuccessfully to maintain a modicum of sophistication while dodging the artillery of newly cut hairs falling onto my face, flying up my nose, sticking onto my glossed lips, poking me in my eyes. Don't move! I thought. I quickly learned that if he wanted me to move my head, he would do it for me.

After about 45 minutes he was determined to make me aware that I can wear my hair in other ways than just "flat and straight." "Eef you want, you can scrrrunch it up zeez way!" "Why not wear it meh-zee, not always so plain?!" I was even instructed to style my hair how I normally would, and then he mussed that up and showed me how to do it the funkier French way. Or is it the Beijing way? No matter. As long as it's not Jersey high-hair. Trying to avoid stereotypes here, even with a pixie cut.

Toward the end of the styling session, post-cut, post-mousse, pre-adjustments with the scissors again, there was a surprising "puff" of powered hair product sprinkled onto my head and my general vicinity.  My new haircut was revealed only after the white styling cloud of "Osis Dust It Mattifying Powder" dissipated. How magical! I love new hair products - I've got to get myself some of this stuff! Who doesn't want to step out of a heavenly cloud of beauty product each morning?

Next time: highlights.

zeez is too much meh-zee for moi!

scruunch!

hmmm? 




that's a bit better

19 February 2011

snap, crackle, pop (!) your way into the year of the rabbit!




 A loves Z!

That last one's supposed to be a "Z."

Say it with fireworks!

Chun Jie - the most important and longest of all the Chinese holidays - has finally come to an end in Beijing. That means no more long lines for traveling (not that we left the city limits anyhow), no more fireworks, no more crowded temple festivals, no more stuffing our faces with jiaozi all in the name of tradition. 

Call it what you will - Chun Jie, Spring Festival, Chinese New Year - it is all about celebrating with family, friends and the important people in your life. It is a tradition that began centuries ago to ring in the new year according to the lunar calendar, and one which has morphed into its present day seemingly endless stream of frivolity and auditory chaos. Today's silence is hard to comprehend after two straight weeks of constant explosions; there was no denying it was the holiday season here with fireworks booming and popping and whizzing and whirring around the clock. At 9:00 each day on my way to class, I had to approach corners with the utmost tact and stealth. You never want to bike straight into the battle. You want to approach it from the side, and swerve around the streams of dancing pyrotechnics. After just three days, I was perfecting my best "duck and cover" routine around all the impromptu firework war zones. Then a week passed by and I was starting to be lulled into Chun Jie submission.  Have you ever been lulled into submission by 10,000 exploding firecrackers? It sounds impossible, but somehow Beijingers manage this feat. 

fireworks/firecrackers/general explosive devices for sale




A view of our "backyard" on Chinese New Year's Eve. 
For video of New Year's Eve check out our YouTube channel

the blurry aftermath of explosions on a Beijing street


During our two weeks off from class and research, we also stopped by a temple festival at Ditan Park. The crowds were unbelievable! I know, I know. It's China. There are always crowds. 1.3 billion people. But how'd they all fit inside Ditan Park that day? 



The temple festivals have become a sort of hybrid celebration: What I saw struck me as a combination of Jersey shore games, traditional Chinese song and dance performances and acrobatics, and a whole lot of fried carnival food. Once As you push your way through the crowds, it is easy to get swept up in the playful atmosphere.  One minute you are cheering for the guy next to you trying his hand at the ring toss, and another minute you are buying tickets for the lily pad game so you can win a giant stuffed frog for yourself (or your sweetheart).
Is that Hello Kitty winking at you in the corner?
leave it to the Jersey girl to find the shore games!

Step right up, folks! 
my mom would love this!


ready to go to a loving home

acrobats and balancing acts - if you can see past the crowd!


The dizzying display of red lanterns around the temples and all across the city are reminders of good luck and prosperity for the new year. Red is everywhere and for good reason: the auspicious and ubiquitous color symbolizes good fortune, joy, truth, sincerity, and wards off evil spirits and bad luck! I did my Chun Jie duty and went out to buy new clothing for the new year: a red shirt that I bargained for myself at Yashow Clothing Market just down the street from our place.





even a gloomy day shines through when red lanterns are everywhere




I even got to help out a friend in New Jersey by hosting a skype session with her fifth grade class about Chinese New Year. Z - the China scholar and historian, the one with the facts - was under the weather when we were scheduled for our little session, so it became a one-woman show. I gave a short lesson on why "we" celebrate Chinese New Year, and I shared my experiences with the kids about what it is like to live in Beijing. They were a lively, enthusiastic class and they asked engaging and smart questions.  There is no way when I was their age I could have imagined talking to someone by video halfway around the globe!



Let's close out this Chun Jie blog with the cutest little new year bunny you ever did see...



14 February 2011

Love is in the air. Ooooh, and free stuff, too!

I have been waiting for the fireworks to die down so that I can hear myself type up a blog post about the Chinese New Year celebrations. We are eleven days into the Year of the Rabbit this Valentine's Day, and the boom! bang! crack! sizzle! fizz! whirrrr! and pow! of explosions are still going on outside my windows at all hours of the day and night. So, posting about Chun Jie is delayed.

Bam! But, do I have Good News to share with you today! That is capital "G," capital "N."

I won a weekend ski trip to China's WanLong Ski Resort compliments of Beijing's Travel-Stone travel agency! Thank you, Travel-Stone and Emilie who called me this morning with the exciting news!

- - - - - waiting for irony to sink in - - - - -

What's that? You know I don't ski? (Are you still laughing as hard as I am?) You can't possibly fathom how I ended up with a free ski trip (deep belly laughs, right?)?

I dropped my name and number in the "Win a Free Trip" bin the travel agency had posted at my local supermarket a couple of weeks ago. Duh! Of course! I was staring at the wall of overpriced wines when a woman behind me at a makeshift table from the travel agency asked me if I'd like to try to win something. Sure. Why not? I've never been skiing (oh, wait, there was that one time when I was 15). It's not like I'm going to win anyway. Hah!

Love is in the air. The love of all things new, exciting and free!

To preview my upcoming ski trip let's take a look at the snow (snow!) outside our apartment. Can you believe it snowed here, finally? Can you believe I won a free ski trip? Can you believe I'm going skiing? In the snow? In China?

There's a first time for everything this winter season!



10 February 2011

spoiled rotten.

Dear Mom (the one with impeccable taste) and Dad (the load-master extraordinaire),




Is there anything better than receiving care packages from 7,000 miles away?

Is there anything that says, feel better soon, or we love you, or we miss you better than a box (or two!) of goodies?

Is there anything that could make a girl giggle more than to find inside one of those packages a little blue box and inside the other package a new dress from her favorite shop in the world?

Honestly. There's nothing better.  

Love, A&Z

08 February 2011

Bunny Hop

Even though we arrived in the Year of the Tiger, a fortuitous year that brought good news for both of us, and much sought after academic accomplishments for Z, it is well established that this is my year to explore: The Year of the Rabbit.

I have also deemed this year:
The Year(s) of Before We Have Kids
The Year of Before More Responsibilities
The Year of Before A&Z Truly Become Adults (will that happen in the next decade?) 
The Year of Making Decisions and Not Making Decisions 
The Year To Look Back On
The Year of Making A Fool of Myself, Not on Purpose, on Several Occasions
The Year of Trying Newer Foods
The Year of Perhaps Not Allowing Loud Neighborly Sounds and General Apartment Living-isms to Annoy Me
The Year of Updating My Resume
The Year of Learning More About Me and My New Hidden Talents

I have also decided that from this year forward, I will make any resolutions starting only during the Chinese New Year and no sooner, no matter my geographical position on this planet. The Eastern Standard Time New Year is all well and good, but making promises to myself on the eve of December 31 can easily be postponed a month or so. This way those promises won't be broken until later into the calendar year. Logic prevails!


30 January 2011

David Sedaris and I are new BFFs

"Did you see any turds today?"

...is what David Sedaris asked me directly, square in the eyes tonight. And thus began my six-minute conversation with David Sedaris, post book tour talk at Mako Live House.

I have not been as forthcoming with my Beijing scatological humor as David Sedaris is and was this evening. His reference is to the feces one can find in the streets of Bejiing, in the un-flushed toilets of public restrooms, in the stumbled upon back alleys, or popular paths frequented by walking dogs.

But isn't it the kind of thing you find only when you are looking for it?

I didn't have the heart to tell him about babies and their split pants. Public potty training at its finest.

It wasn't all toilet humor. Our conversation and his book reading. He obviously entertained us with stories from his latest satirical compilation Squirrel Seeks Chipmunk. When asked by an audience member, he said that he is the "Motherless Bear," and the "Vigilant Rabbit" is based on a power hungry, aggressive, elderly TSA woman he came across during one of his many airport frisks. His taxi travels in Beijing reminded him of a piece from Engulfed in Flames that had the entire audience in a fit of laughter. He shared his newly selected Chinese name which he chose from the menu of a local restaurant: Water Seepage Bullfrog (I am pretty certain I know which restaurant he patronized. I've been there a few times, and you don't forget that kind of menu item). Overall, I hope he enjoyed his first trip to Beijing. He told us that he thought Beijing was a "wild, just wild" place to be these days.

When I had my eight minutes to chat with him as he was signing my book...did I say six minutes earlier? Well now I am certain it was more like eight minutes -- the conversation was going so well, we had so much in common. For example, we spoke about learning another language (he puts down his French like all good bi/tri/multi-lingual speakers).  I told him how Beijing seeps into you; the language, the food, the unwonted breach of norms that become mundane over time. Soon enough, you don't see any turds. Until you step in them, that is. OK. And maybe I didn't actually use the word "unwonted" in his company. Ok. But he's funny, I'm funny (right?). Perhaps we don't have all that much in common.

Here's my big takeaway from my night with David Sedaris (we're not exactly on a first name basis, so I'll stick with his full English name instead of Water Seepage...): Now is the time to be in Beijing, just to see what's going to happen. Stick around. Ten years from now, it is very likely that this may be a very different place, and I just may be a (very) different person. Except for that part about me being funny. That won't change. 

28 January 2011

the science and art of healing

If your day is turning out to be anything like mine, then I am certain you have been anxiously awaiting for the results of yesterday's science experiment.

Just let me grab another tissue, first.

OK. So, I'm not cured. But I did sleep a lot better (after my second piping hot mug of the elixir known as Ganmao Qingre Keli). Almost immediately after finishing yesterday's post and the first round of meds, my head cleared up, which made breathing, that daily task that is taken for granted all too often, much much easier. I don't want to jinx myself by being too optimistic, but this stuff seems to be working my cold up and out of the confines of my body.

I'll give it another day, another round of watching TV shows on DVD (we found that forgotten but beautifully costumed series Pushing Daisies), another book reading, and another few mugs of the wonder drug before I weigh in with my final analysis.

I promise much more exciting news on the horizon. Chun Jie is really right around the corner. I have almost two weeks off from classes because of the holiday - adventures abound! We are seeing David Sedaris tomorrow evening at Mako Live House; so now I must save up the remainder of my energy to think of something witty to say to him as he's autographing my copy of his latest book (Squirrel Seeks Chipmunk)! I have ruled out Chinese phrases I have learned such as, "what a good dog you have!" I say this as I am petting the neighbor's overly-active golden retriever and it is stealing my mitten off of my hand in one slobbery fell swoop. Or, for instance, when I introduce Z to my Mandarin teachers, saying, "this is my husband, he is a student of history" which actually usually comes out of my mouth as, "this is my student, he is a Chinese husband history." Or, my favorite, "today is very cold, you should wear a coat!" I never get that one wrong.